a list of 'how to do' in the woodwork field
This images shows the original design
by Rob that allowed him to grind the
front bevel on  a Japanese  chisels.  At
that time Tormek did not have an
attachment that worked for these chisels.

Rob’s original design was secured with
screws.   Because I had some bolts and
wing nuts in stock I gave them a go and
they worked well.  

Having made the jig I then realised that if
I extended it at the end that I am
pointing to with pencil, that I could
carry out other grinding operation that I
have mentioned in the introduction to
this topic of chisel sharpening.

Web page reference                 RSJ01
my computer reference          RSJ01
a jig that fits onto the Tormek grindstone, designed by Rob Stoakley
Making the ‘Rob Stoakley’ jig.
Now I have to confess, that during part
of the grinding operations, I could have
managed with the jig a little longer at the
opposite end that I am pointing to.

If ever I build a new model I will make
those adjustments. I will included these
upgraded measurements in the
instructions that follow.  Well hindsight
is wonderful.

Also worth mentioning, is the fact that
the measurements that I provide will
work comfortably with chisel handles
between 20-30mm (3/4”-1 ¼”) in
diameter.

The jig is easier to use when the handle
shape is cylindrical, rather than the Lie-
Nielson shaped handle.   If your handles
are wider than that, you will have to
increase the width of the jig.
Web page reference                 RSJ02
my computer reference          RSJ02
And this is the extended jig that allowed me to safely remove the excess metal on a
chisel.
a jig that fits onto the Tormek grindstone, designed by Rob Stoakley and developed by alan wood
Making the jig.
Web page reference                 RSJ03
my computer reference          RSJ03

I used bolts are 60mm(2 3/8”) long with
a washer and wing nut.
I used bolts are 60mm(2 3/8”) long with
a washer and wing nut.
the fixings used to hold the chisel in position in the jig
And for SketchUp
users, here is the
model of the jig.

If you wish to
download this
model,click on the
image.

Web page reference                 RSJ04
my computer reference          RSJ20
a SketchUp model of the jig available for download
Select a good quality plywood and make two pieces to the finished size of
240mm( 9 ½”) by 65mm(2 5/8”) by 6mm (1/4”) thick.


Web page reference                 RSJ05
my computer reference          top and bottom 01
two pieces of plywood are required to make the jig
Then find a straight grained timber and make four pieces 240mm( 9 ½”) by 28mm(1 1/8”) wide by 8mm (5/16”) thick, and glue
these to the two pieces of plywood.



Web page reference                 RSJ06
my computer reference          jaws02
four pieces of timber shaped like this
Like this





Web page reference                 RSJ07
my computer reference          top and
bottom02
these pieces of wood are glued to the plywood
when the glue is hardened cramp the top and bottom pieces of plywood together, and using a drill press drill through both
components in one operation with a 6mm (1/4”) diameter drill.  




Web page reference                 RSJ08
my computer reference          RSJ18 scene 2
and whilst held together the holes are drilled to take the bolts.
and these are the measurements.



Web page reference                 RSJ09
my computer reference          RSJ19 scene
3
the measurements for the holes
The next job is to make and fit the piece of wood that will eventually slide on the Tormek bar. Cut a piece of timber around 27mm
(1 1/8”) square by 65mm(2 5/8”) long and secure it in a drill press drill and carefully drill the 12mm(5/8”) the hole through the
centre.   Now this will require opening up a fraction to make it fit smoothly.  I used a piece of wet and dry fitted to a piece of
dowel rod.





Web page reference                 RSJ10
my computer reference          RSJ10
a 12mm(5/8
I found that the hole that I drilled was fractionally out of true, and by checking the component as shown below I could take a couple
of shavings at either A or B to centre the hole.   I would then mark that as the face side.  This area that will eventually be glued to the
plywood.




Web page reference                 RSJ11
my computer reference          RSJ20 scene 4
a few shavings may have to be removed to ensure that the hole is central
You also need to check the measurements as illustrated below.   Once you are, mark that as the face edge.





Web page reference                 RSJ12
my computer reference          RSJ20 scene 5
a few shavings may have to be removed to ensure that the hole is central
this now needs cramping and glueing to the plywood around 22mm(7/8”) from one end.  




Web page reference                 RSJ13
my computer reference          RSJ20 scene 6
and when the glue is dry, round over the corners using a hand plane, and remove all of the sharp corners with some wet and
dry/glasspaper. I also gave mine a couple of coats of varnish.





Web page reference                 RSJ14
my computer reference          RSJ20 scene 7
And the finished product.




Web page reference                 RSJ04
my computer reference          RSJ20 scene 1
In the next chapter I will explain using this jig, how to remove the area of metal behind the ‘heel’ of the chisel to allow the bottom of
the chisel to be flattened.

ChisC1
If you have benefited from this web page and would like to contribute to good causes listed below are charities of my
choice.
The Alzheimers Association. www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails
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