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An introduction to the Tormek water cooled grindstone, and the Rob Stoakley
attachment.
A few notes on chisels.
My first experience of using a top quality bevel edge chisel was when I attended a three week cabinet making course
with David Charlesworth in August 2001. I was introduced to the wonders of laminated Japanese chisels, and was
amazed at what true sharpness was, how much longer they stayed sharp compared with my old chisels, and more
importantly, what was achievable with these beautiful tools.
A few years down the line I bought a couple of the Lie-Neilson bevel edged chisels and they are just as good. They
are made from A2 steel, cryogenically heat treated, and take an amazingly sharp edge.
Since they the British firm Clifton have brought to market a bevel edged chisel also made with A2 steel. They have
received an excellent write up in the woodworking press
In these chapters, in particular the chapters on flattening the bottom of a chisel and the honing angles, I will not be
saying anything different to what David Charlesworth writes or covers in his dvd on chisel sharpening.
However what you will find here that is not covered in David's dvd on are;-
how to safely remove the excess metal at the sides of chisels,
and how to remove the 'bump' of metal behind the 'heel' of a Japanese chisel, all very important parts of getting chisels
ready for fine dovetailing. These parts of a chisel can safely be removed using a jig that I saw in one of the
woodworking magazines designed by Rob Stoakley.
attachment.
A few notes on chisels.
My first experience of using a top quality bevel edge chisel was when I attended a three week cabinet making course
with David Charlesworth in August 2001. I was introduced to the wonders of laminated Japanese chisels, and was
amazed at what true sharpness was, how much longer they stayed sharp compared with my old chisels, and more
importantly, what was achievable with these beautiful tools.
A few years down the line I bought a couple of the Lie-Neilson bevel edged chisels and they are just as good. They
are made from A2 steel, cryogenically heat treated, and take an amazingly sharp edge.
Since they the British firm Clifton have brought to market a bevel edged chisel also made with A2 steel. They have
received an excellent write up in the woodworking press
In these chapters, in particular the chapters on flattening the bottom of a chisel and the honing angles, I will not be
saying anything different to what David Charlesworth writes or covers in his dvd on chisel sharpening.
However what you will find here that is not covered in David's dvd on are;-
how to safely remove the excess metal at the sides of chisels,
and how to remove the 'bump' of metal behind the 'heel' of a Japanese chisel, all very important parts of getting chisels
ready for fine dovetailing. These parts of a chisel can safely be removed using a jig that I saw in one of the
woodworking magazines designed by Rob Stoakley.
my reference ChisC1001
I developed Rob’s
design to allowed
me to achieve
other grinding
operations on the
water cooled
grindstone.
design to allowed
me to achieve
other grinding
operations on the
water cooled
grindstone.
my reference ChisC1002
and another view of
the jig.
the jig.
my reference ChisC1003
Anyone who owns
a Japanese chisel
will be aware that
they will have to
remove some
metal behind the
sole of the chisel
to allow it to be
flattened. The
pencil is pointing to
the area is
question.
a Japanese chisel
will be aware that
they will have to
remove some
metal behind the
sole of the chisel
to allow it to be
flattened. The
pencil is pointing to
the area is
question.
my reference ChisC1004a
And the chisel is
positioned in the
Rob Stoakley jig
like so.
positioned in the
Rob Stoakley jig
like so.
my reference ChisC1004
and is safely held in
the jig to remove the
excess metal.
the jig to remove the
excess metal.
my reference ChisC1005
All the chisels that I
own have required
the metal at the side
of the chisel to be
bevelled to allow
them to access the
angled corners of a
dovetail joint.
own have required
the metal at the side
of the chisel to be
bevelled to allow
them to access the
angled corners of a
dovetail joint.
my reference ChisC1005a
and these can be
over 3mm(1/8") thick
over 3mm(1/8") thick
my reference ChisC1005b
using Rob’s jig, it is
easy to remove this
metal safely.
easy to remove this
metal safely.
my reference ChisC1006
on both edges.
Using the jig is
than manner
also allows me
to reduce the
width of the
chisel for custom
sized joints.
Using the jig is
than manner
also allows me
to reduce the
width of the
chisel for custom
sized joints.
my reference ChisC1007
and some of the narrower chisels have a
top edge that is pyramid shaped, and
can be rather uncomfortable on the
fingers with regular use,
top edge that is pyramid shaped, and
can be rather uncomfortable on the
fingers with regular use,
my reference ChisC1008
And this jig holds the chisel safely
whilst I remove some metal from the
front end of the chisel
whilst I remove some metal from the
front end of the chisel
my reference ChisC1009
it is also used to grind the front bevel.
At the time I developed Rob's jig,
Tormek did not have a jig attachment
that allowed you to grind this bevel.
Owners of Japanese chisels will be
aware of this fact.
They now have a product that is
marketed as suitable for these shorter
blade chisels. I don't own one so
cannot comment on how efficient they
are.
At the time I developed Rob's jig,
Tormek did not have a jig attachment
that allowed you to grind this bevel.
Owners of Japanese chisels will be
aware of this fact.
They now have a product that is
marketed as suitable for these shorter
blade chisels. I don't own one so
cannot comment on how efficient they
are.
my reference ChisC1010
The jig is also useful when reducing the
width of the chisel, in this example
converting a 6mm(1/4”) firmer chisel into
a ‘skew’ chisel.
width of the chisel, in this example
converting a 6mm(1/4”) firmer chisel into
a ‘skew’ chisel.
my reference ChisC1011
Very hand for converting a Japanese
firmer chisel into a bevel edged chisel.
firmer chisel into a bevel edged chisel.
my reference ChisC1012
and a close up view.
my reference ChisC1013
and the Rob Stoakley jig can
be used with a variety of
hand shapes. In the
foreground is the Lie-
Nielson design, the next two
are Japanese chisels, and
the last one in and old chisel
that I converted into a ‘skew
chisel’.
If I was going to purchase
any more chisels I would
select
one that was fitted with a
handle that was basically
cylindrical and not shaped
like the Lie-Neilson
illustrated.
They now manufacture a
paring chisel with a longer
handle and I would adapt
one of these.
be used with a variety of
hand shapes. In the
foreground is the Lie-
Nielson design, the next two
are Japanese chisels, and
the last one in and old chisel
that I converted into a ‘skew
chisel’.
If I was going to purchase
any more chisels I would
select
one that was fitted with a
handle that was basically
cylindrical and not shaped
like the Lie-Neilson
illustrated.
They now manufacture a
paring chisel with a longer
handle and I would adapt
one of these.
my reference ChisC1014
Prior to making this jig I carried out all of the above modifications ‘freehand’. The results were successful, but not with
the safety and precision possible with this jig.
the safety and precision possible with this jig.
The Tormek water cooled
grindstone.
All of the chisels I have
purchased over the years have
required work on the grindstone
before they are suitable for
dovetailing.
This image shows a Tormek
grindstone with a home made
jig, designed by Rob Stoakley,
and developed by myself, safely
holding a chisel whilst grinding
the front bevel.
grindstone.
All of the chisels I have
purchased over the years have
required work on the grindstone
before they are suitable for
dovetailing.
This image shows a Tormek
grindstone with a home made
jig, designed by Rob Stoakley,
and developed by myself, safely
holding a chisel whilst grinding
the front bevel.
Copy of GriEgs12 copy.jpg
Some of my work
requires custom
sized chisels.
This 3mm wide
chisel has been
reduced to 1mm
using the jig.
requires custom
sized chisels.
This 3mm wide
chisel has been
reduced to 1mm
using the jig.
Whilst this was
reduced to 1.5mm
reduced to 1.5mm
