Maintenance of my Japanese water stones.
A brief overview.
I own three King Brand Japanese water stones, and you will have seen reference to them in the chapter My tool
sharpening system
The 800 grit water stone. This is a very quick cutting stone and has various uses:-
a I use it when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels,
b and, for honing both of the above during the sharpening process.
The 1200 grit water stone, which is a bit finer. I use this stone:-
a To remove the 800 grit marks left when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels.
b to form a slurry on the 800 grit stone. I will be explained forming a slurry in this chapter.
The 8000 grit water stone
This is a superfine stone, and on some metals, with leave a mirror like finish. This stone comes with a smaller one,
called a ‘Nagura stone’, and this is also used to form a slurry.
a I use this stone when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels, and to remove the marks left by the
1200 grit stone.
b For honing both chisel and plane blades, and when carrying out the ‘David Charlesworth’ ‘ruler trick’ on plane
blades.
Bevelling the corners of the 800, 1200, 8000grit stones and nagura stone.
What I personally believe is good practice, is to use part of the wet and dry for the 800 and 1200 grit water stones,
and the other half for the 8000 grit and nagura stone. In this way, there is less chance of contamination of the
superfine stone.
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A brief overview.
I own three King Brand Japanese water stones, and you will have seen reference to them in the chapter My tool
sharpening system
The 800 grit water stone. This is a very quick cutting stone and has various uses:-
a I use it when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels,
b and, for honing both of the above during the sharpening process.
The 1200 grit water stone, which is a bit finer. I use this stone:-
a To remove the 800 grit marks left when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels.
b to form a slurry on the 800 grit stone. I will be explained forming a slurry in this chapter.
The 8000 grit water stone
This is a superfine stone, and on some metals, with leave a mirror like finish. This stone comes with a smaller one,
called a ‘Nagura stone’, and this is also used to form a slurry.
a I use this stone when flattening the backs of plane blades and chisels, and to remove the marks left by the
1200 grit stone.
b For honing both chisel and plane blades, and when carrying out the ‘David Charlesworth’ ‘ruler trick’ on plane
blades.
Bevelling the corners of the 800, 1200, 8000grit stones and nagura stone.
What I personally believe is good practice, is to use part of the wet and dry for the 800 and 1200 grit water stones,
and the other half for the 8000 grit and nagura stone. In this way, there is less chance of contamination of the
superfine stone.
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The first job that requires attention is to bevel the corners on all of the corners of the stones. If you fail to do this, or
to maintain this feature throughout its working life, lumps of the stone will break away. Not advisable.
I leave the 800 and 1200 grit stones in a seed tray half filled with water for a period of ½ hour.
After half and hour, I soak a full sheet of 240 grit wet and dry, and place it on the float glass, then very carefully bevel
all the edges of the 800 and 1200 grit stones. The bevel is in the region of 3mm wide (1/8”).
Once the stones have been bevelled I would recommend
a that you wash the wet and dry in a bucket of water. It does not take long for the
wet and dry to get clogged up with particles from the stone.
b you wash the stones in the bucket of water to remove the residue.
c I would also recommend that you clean away with kitchen towel, the reside on the float glass.
This procedure will become second nature when using the water stones.
Once it has been washed, return it to the float glass, and using the other half of the wet and dry, bevel the edges on
the 8000 grit and nagura stone.
Then
a Wash the stone in the separate seed tray ½ full of water to remove the residue
b wash that half of the wet and dry that was used, also in the same seed tray.
c clean the float glass with paper towel.
d return the wet and dry to the float glass.
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to maintain this feature throughout its working life, lumps of the stone will break away. Not advisable.
I leave the 800 and 1200 grit stones in a seed tray half filled with water for a period of ½ hour.
After half and hour, I soak a full sheet of 240 grit wet and dry, and place it on the float glass, then very carefully bevel
all the edges of the 800 and 1200 grit stones. The bevel is in the region of 3mm wide (1/8”).
Once the stones have been bevelled I would recommend
a that you wash the wet and dry in a bucket of water. It does not take long for the
wet and dry to get clogged up with particles from the stone.
b you wash the stones in the bucket of water to remove the residue.
c I would also recommend that you clean away with kitchen towel, the reside on the float glass.
This procedure will become second nature when using the water stones.
Once it has been washed, return it to the float glass, and using the other half of the wet and dry, bevel the edges on
the 8000 grit and nagura stone.
Then
a Wash the stone in the separate seed tray ½ full of water to remove the residue
b wash that half of the wet and dry that was used, also in the same seed tray.
c clean the float glass with paper towel.
d return the wet and dry to the float glass.
090
Flattening the water stones
When new, the stones will require flattening, and because they wear amazingly quickly, they will require regular
maintenance, otherwise your chisels and plane blades will end up next to useless.
I will cover how often they require flattening, during the separate sharpening processes, because descriptions like
‘regular flattening’ is not very helpful.
Starting with the 800 and 1200 grit water stones.
Place the stones in a seed tray, half full with water for about ½ hour, as per the manufacturer’s instructions, then soak
a piece of wet and dry and fit it onto the float glass.
I then add ‘grid lines’ with a carpenters pencil on the both the top and bottom surfaces as shown below. The pencil
lines need to be around 3mm- 6mm(1/8”-1/4”) from the edges. In the illustration I have shown an additional 3 lines
going across the stone. 3, 4 5 it does not matter.
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When new, the stones will require flattening, and because they wear amazingly quickly, they will require regular
maintenance, otherwise your chisels and plane blades will end up next to useless.
I will cover how often they require flattening, during the separate sharpening processes, because descriptions like
‘regular flattening’ is not very helpful.
Starting with the 800 and 1200 grit water stones.
Place the stones in a seed tray, half full with water for about ½ hour, as per the manufacturer’s instructions, then soak
a piece of wet and dry and fit it onto the float glass.
I then add ‘grid lines’ with a carpenters pencil on the both the top and bottom surfaces as shown below. The pencil
lines need to be around 3mm- 6mm(1/8”-1/4”) from the edges. In the illustration I have shown an additional 3 lines
going across the stone. 3, 4 5 it does not matter.
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I hold the stone in one hand, and pressing down in the centre, move it in the direction indicated. It is important when
rubbing the stone that you do not allow it to project too far past the edges of the wet and dry, because by doing so,
the stone could possibly end up fractionally hollow in its length. I would recommend no more than 10mm(3/8”)
.
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rubbing the stone that you do not allow it to project too far past the edges of the wet and dry, because by doing so,
the stone could possibly end up fractionally hollow in its length. I would recommend no more than 10mm(3/8”)
.
093
It is then a matter of experience to know how many movements forwards and backwards are required before the
pencil lines are removed.
This will obviously vary dependent on roughness of wet and dry that you use, the amount of pressure being exerted,
the part of the stone that is being used etc. etc.
Once all the pencil lines have been removed I am happy that the stone is flat.
Then
a Wash the stone in the bucket of water and clean away the residue
b wash that half of the wet and dry that was used in the bucket of water.
c clean the float glass with paper towel.
d return the wet and dry to the float glass.
Repeat the process with the 1200 grit stone, then repeat the cleaning up process.
pencil lines are removed.
This will obviously vary dependent on roughness of wet and dry that you use, the amount of pressure being exerted,
the part of the stone that is being used etc. etc.
Once all the pencil lines have been removed I am happy that the stone is flat.
Then
a Wash the stone in the bucket of water and clean away the residue
b wash that half of the wet and dry that was used in the bucket of water.
c clean the float glass with paper towel.
d return the wet and dry to the float glass.
Repeat the process with the 1200 grit stone, then repeat the cleaning up process.
The 8000 grit water stone.
The only difference here is:-
a use the half of the wet and dry reserved for this stone.
b the 8000 grit stone is submerged for a couple of seconds in the separate seed tray of water, kept aside for that
purpose, prior to flattening.
c when the stone is flattened, the wet and dry is washed in the seed tray mentioned above.
The only difference here is:-
a use the half of the wet and dry reserved for this stone.
b the 8000 grit stone is submerged for a couple of seconds in the separate seed tray of water, kept aside for that
purpose, prior to flattening.
c when the stone is flattened, the wet and dry is washed in the seed tray mentioned above.
Getting the 800 grit and 1200 grit stones ready for use.
My King brand stones require that they be placed in water for at least half an hour before they are used, and in
practice they are kept in a seed tray half full with water. After use, I cover the seed trays with a piece of cardboard to
keep out any dust.
If I am not cabinet making for some time, I just remove the stones from the water, and allow them to dry out.
I remove the stone that I want to use from the water tray, and secure it in my sharpening station with the wedge.
I then take the other stone, place it on top, and move it in the direction indicated below, for about half a dozen
forwards and backwards strokes. By doing this the stone ends up with a small amount of slurry, and this helps the
stone cut more efficiently.
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My King brand stones require that they be placed in water for at least half an hour before they are used, and in
practice they are kept in a seed tray half full with water. After use, I cover the seed trays with a piece of cardboard to
keep out any dust.
If I am not cabinet making for some time, I just remove the stones from the water, and allow them to dry out.
I remove the stone that I want to use from the water tray, and secure it in my sharpening station with the wedge.
I then take the other stone, place it on top, and move it in the direction indicated below, for about half a dozen
forwards and backwards strokes. By doing this the stone ends up with a small amount of slurry, and this helps the
stone cut more efficiently.
094
I only allow the stone to overlap the one beneath by around 10mm (3/8”) either end
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When a small amount of slurry is formed the stone is ready for use. The uppermost stone is then returned to its water
bath.
What I find, depending on what process I am carrying out, is that the stone soon become dry, and the part of the stone
that has been worked on becomes a little clogged. Probably a combination of metal being deposited from the tool
being worked, and the residue from the stone.
It is a simple matter to refresh the stone. Remove the stone from the water bath, and repeat the dozen or so forwards
and backwards strokes. The stone will be clean again, with a thin layer of slurry.
In the next chapter, I will be dealing with how I flatten and sharpen my Japanese marking knife. I will explain in detail
how often I have to reform a slurry there. I hope that should be of some use.
bath.
What I find, depending on what process I am carrying out, is that the stone soon become dry, and the part of the stone
that has been worked on becomes a little clogged. Probably a combination of metal being deposited from the tool
being worked, and the residue from the stone.
It is a simple matter to refresh the stone. Remove the stone from the water bath, and repeat the dozen or so forwards
and backwards strokes. The stone will be clean again, with a thin layer of slurry.
In the next chapter, I will be dealing with how I flatten and sharpen my Japanese marking knife. I will explain in detail
how often I have to reform a slurry there. I hope that should be of some use.
Getting the 8000 grit stone ready for use.
I submerge the 8000 grit stone in the seed tray, kept for that purpose, for 3-4 seconds, then secure it to the
sharpening station with the wedge. I then dip the nagura stone in the same tray of water.
The nagura stone is then moved in a circular motion, along the complete width and length of the stone, forming a very
fine slurry.
During the summer months, or whilst working in a warm workshop I find that the 8000 grit stone becomes dry pretty
quickly, and therefore not suitable for use.
If this occurs, and it does regularly, just dip the nagura stone in the water bath, and use the nagura stone in the
same circular motions. If you fail to do this, the stone gets clogged up pretty quickly with deposits of metal, and
becomes unusable.
097
I submerge the 8000 grit stone in the seed tray, kept for that purpose, for 3-4 seconds, then secure it to the
sharpening station with the wedge. I then dip the nagura stone in the same tray of water.
The nagura stone is then moved in a circular motion, along the complete width and length of the stone, forming a very
fine slurry.
During the summer months, or whilst working in a warm workshop I find that the 8000 grit stone becomes dry pretty
quickly, and therefore not suitable for use.
If this occurs, and it does regularly, just dip the nagura stone in the water bath, and use the nagura stone in the
same circular motions. If you fail to do this, the stone gets clogged up pretty quickly with deposits of metal, and
becomes unusable.
097
and this process probably takes no more that 10-15 seconds
How often do I have to flatten the stones?
I will cover this is detail when I am actually explaining each topic.
In the next chapter, I will be explaining how I get my Japanese marking knife suitable for fine cabinet making, and my
method of using it to form accurate shoulder lines.
This will involve flattening the back of the marking knife, grinding and honing it, and this involves a lot of work on the
water stones. I will be able to answer that question then.
How often do I have to flatten the stones?
I will cover this is detail when I am actually explaining each topic.
In the next chapter, I will be explaining how I get my Japanese marking knife suitable for fine cabinet making, and my
method of using it to form accurate shoulder lines.
This will involve flattening the back of the marking knife, grinding and honing it, and this involves a lot of work on the
water stones. I will be able to answer that question then.
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