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Dovetail templates
At the very young age of 11yrs, I used to attend the woodwork club run by Mr George Markham and it was with his tuition that I
made my first dovetailed box. A small little thing made from a timber that we called ‘African’ walnut not a true walnut as such, but
certainly a beautiful timber. It had twin dovetails in the corners, a bottom that was glued in position and a lift off lid. For a first
attempt it wasn’t too bad certainly a box that my Grandmother loved but then she would, wouldn’t she. I was hooked on the craft
and have been ever since. This was my first experience of using a dovetail template using a knife.
As far as dovetailing was concerned from leaving school until my retirement I completed all my dovetailing using machines. It was
certainly efficient but I was looking for more from the craft.
I wanted to master the skill of cutting them by hand again. One of the biggest problems for all people in this lovely craft of ours, is
finding the right tools for the job and dovetail templates are no exception.
There are many templates on the market that will allow you to mark out the dovetails using a pencil but I prefer a knife. Some
templates will allow you to mark some of the relevent lines with a knife but not if the knife line is close to the edge of the wood.
Having carried out my search for suitable templates and failing to find any for my method of working, I eventually came up with
the designs that follow.
At the very young age of 11yrs, I used to attend the woodwork club run by Mr George Markham and it was with his tuition that I
made my first dovetailed box. A small little thing made from a timber that we called ‘African’ walnut not a true walnut as such, but
certainly a beautiful timber. It had twin dovetails in the corners, a bottom that was glued in position and a lift off lid. For a first
attempt it wasn’t too bad certainly a box that my Grandmother loved but then she would, wouldn’t she. I was hooked on the craft
and have been ever since. This was my first experience of using a dovetail template using a knife.
As far as dovetailing was concerned from leaving school until my retirement I completed all my dovetailing using machines. It was
certainly efficient but I was looking for more from the craft.
I wanted to master the skill of cutting them by hand again. One of the biggest problems for all people in this lovely craft of ours, is
finding the right tools for the job and dovetail templates are no exception.
There are many templates on the market that will allow you to mark out the dovetails using a pencil but I prefer a knife. Some
templates will allow you to mark some of the relevent lines with a knife but not if the knife line is close to the edge of the wood.
Having carried out my search for suitable templates and failing to find any for my method of working, I eventually came up with
the designs that follow.
A brief overview
The first template is effectively what I would call a ‘square’
I made the dovetail ‘square’ from one piece of timber with a length of steel rule rebated into the wood. Essential features of this
template are the two rebates either side of the steel rule,
fig 1
web reference square01
my reference making the square 109
The first template is effectively what I would call a ‘square’
I made the dovetail ‘square’ from one piece of timber with a length of steel rule rebated into the wood. Essential features of this
template are the two rebates either side of the steel rule,
fig 1
web reference square01
my reference making the square 109
and the steel rule extends past the rebate a very small amount.
The surface ‘A’ will act as a support during the marking out and allow the user to mark vertical lines very close to the edge of a
dovetail component.
fig 2
web reference square 02m
dovetail template square 025m.skp
The surface ‘A’ will act as a support during the marking out and allow the user to mark vertical lines very close to the edge of a
dovetail component.
fig 2
web reference square 02m
dovetail template square 025m.skp
And you will need a quality steel rule. I used an old Stanley 150mm(6”) rule 0.5mm (1/64") thick, but ones that are 1mm thick
are fine.
When I published the details of this template in a woodworking magazine a gentleman commented that if anyone had access to
metalwork equipment a metal template would do just as well.
Using my method of working that is not in fact correct. On occasions the marking knife is moved towards the wooden body of
the template, and if this was metal, and the marking knife slipped it could easily be damaged.
And here is one of my dovetails 'squares' This was made from and old boxwood rule that I purchased from Bygone Times for a
very small amount of money.
are fine.
When I published the details of this template in a woodworking magazine a gentleman commented that if anyone had access to
metalwork equipment a metal template would do just as well.
Using my method of working that is not in fact correct. On occasions the marking knife is moved towards the wooden body of
the template, and if this was metal, and the marking knife slipped it could easily be damaged.
And here is one of my dovetails 'squares' This was made from and old boxwood rule that I purchased from Bygone Times for a
very small amount of money.
And these are the lines that you will be able to mark with a knife and the dovetail ‘square’, as indicated by the arrows on
a ‘tail component’
A few terms that I use.
The red arrows in this drawing are resting on what I refer to as the ‘datum end’. This will have been accurately make square on
the ‘shooting board’.
And the side that you are viewing in this picture will be referred to as the ‘datum side’. This side will be the one that has been
accurately planed perfectly flat and not in twist.
fig 3
web reference square03
my ref dovetail joints 037.skp
a ‘tail component’
A few terms that I use.
The red arrows in this drawing are resting on what I refer to as the ‘datum end’. This will have been accurately make square on
the ‘shooting board’.
And the side that you are viewing in this picture will be referred to as the ‘datum side’. This side will be the one that has been
accurately planed perfectly flat and not in twist.
fig 3
web reference square03
my ref dovetail joints 037.skp
and parts of the ‘pin’ component’ marked with the ‘square’
fig 4
web reference square04
my ref dovetail joints 039.skp
fig 4
web reference square04
my ref dovetail joints 039.skp
The second template has a slope of 1 in 8, my preferred slope of a dovetail joint. This is made from two pieces of timber with the
steel rule ‘sandwiched’ between them. This template has two purposes. Firstly to mark the shape of the dovetails onto the
‘tail’ component whilst held firmly on the ‘datum end’
fig 5
web reference square05
my reference dovetail template 1 in 8 39.skp
steel rule ‘sandwiched’ between them. This template has two purposes. Firstly to mark the shape of the dovetails onto the
‘tail’ component whilst held firmly on the ‘datum end’
fig 5
web reference square05
my reference dovetail template 1 in 8 39.skp
And this template is used to marked these lines with a knife.
fig 6
my ref dovetail joints 040.skp
web reference square 06
fig 6
my ref dovetail joints 040.skp
web reference square 06
On occasions I have failed to fully transfer the shape of the dovetail ‘tails’ on to the end grain when marking the position of the
‘pins’.
I can then use this template to mark the missing parts of the lines. It doesn’t happen very often but when it does, its nice having
some form of accurate back up.
fig 7
web reference square 07m
my ref dovetail joints 042.skp
‘pins’.
I can then use this template to mark the missing parts of the lines. It doesn’t happen very often but when it does, its nice having
some form of accurate back up.
fig 7
web reference square 07m
my ref dovetail joints 042.skp
A feature that is key to the success of these template is to be able to clearly see the line that has been marked on the end grain, and
I achieve this by having a rebate either side of the metal rule. (measurements are provided later)
With a light source positioned to the rear of this joint, the ‘square’ lines on the end grain show up clearly allowing the user to
accurately place their dovetail marking knife and mark the sloping line
web reference square 08
my ref dovetail joints 044.skp
I achieve this by having a rebate either side of the metal rule. (measurements are provided later)
With a light source positioned to the rear of this joint, the ‘square’ lines on the end grain show up clearly allowing the user to
accurately place their dovetail marking knife and mark the sloping line
web reference square 08
my ref dovetail joints 044.skp
and when viewed from the rear you will see how part of the template marked ‘A’ in fig 2 supports the template when marking lines
very close to the edge of a piece of timber.
fig 9
web reference square 09
my ref dovetail joints 046.skp
very close to the edge of a piece of timber.
fig 9
web reference square 09
my ref dovetail joints 046.skp
In the next chapter I will explain how I actually make these templates.
If you have benefited from this web page and would like to contribute to good causes listed below are charities of my
choice.
The Alzheimers Association. www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails
Water aid www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails1
Dreams come true www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails2
Help for heroes www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails3
The Wounded Warrior Project www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/hand-cut-dovetails/alan
choice.
The Alzheimers Association. www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails
Water aid www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails1
Dreams come true www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails2
Help for heroes www.justgiving.com/hand-cut-dovetails3
The Wounded Warrior Project www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/hand-cut-dovetails/alan