Grinding and honing the chisel.
Grinding the bevel.
I use all of my chisels with a paring action, without using a hammer, so I am happy using a quite shallow grinding angle of around 23
degrees.
To achieve that angle I secure the chisel in the Rob Stoakley inspired jig, with a projection of 37mm(1 ½”) from the front. When
grinding small chisels be aware that metal is ground away very quickly. My aim is to leave a very small amount of the blunt metal
on the edge and later remove this on the 800 grit water stones during the honing process.
web ref GriHone01
my reference.

Honing.
Firstly on the 800 grit water stone.(you may need to read the chapter Water stone maintenance if you have not already done so)
I use the Stanley honing guide with the chisel projecting 11mm from the 'front edge', giving an angle off around 33 degrees. The
aim when working on this rough stone is to remove the very small amount of blunt metal left at the front edge after the grinding
process.
Position the blade as indicated below, and only move the chisel in one direction as indicated by the arrow using firm pressure near
the tip of the chisel. By positioning a table lamp close to my sharpening station, I can clearly see a small wire edge being formed,
and it needs to be formed across the complete width of the blade. A dark deposit of metal is also left on the stone. You may have
to slightly reposition the blade to ensure that the full width is being honed.
web ref GriHone02
my reference.

Having formed the
wire edge across
the complete width
of the blade, I then
clean the blade and
the honing guide.
Honing on the 8000 grit water stone.
I reset the projection in the Stanley honing guide to 9.5mm giving an angle of around 35 degrees, , and repeat the process on the
8000 grit water stone with three full lengths of the stone. This leaves a very small polished edge of metal that meets with the 8000
grit polished bottom surface.
web ref GriHone03
my reference.
Finally removal of the wire edge on the 8000 grit water stone.
Now this is where it is so handy having a blade that is fractionally hollow in its length, and continually maintaining that feature.
I position the 8000 grit stone in the sharpening station, form a slurry with the nagura stone, and draw a pencil line around 15mm
(5/8”) from the edge of the stone. The chisel is then positioned as below.
web ref GriHone04
my reference. FtBtm17.JPG
and the aim is to move the chisel in the direction shown below and when doing so the wire edge will deposited on the edge of the
stone. When this happens I will clean the chisel with kitchen towel then wipe it with 3 in 1 oil to prevent the chisel rusting. Before
the chisel is used it is cleaned again with kitchen towel.
web ref GriHone05
my reference. FtBtm018.jpg
Once I have used a part of the stone for removal of the wire edges I will add pencil lines to the stone as a clean indication that part
of the stone is not to be used again until flattened.
The completed chisel.
To get a chisel ready for fine cabinet making takes some time because they don’t arrive fit for purpose straight from the
manufacturer. After a considerable amount of work this chisel is ready for dovetailing.
web ref GriHone06
my reference. Copy of GriEgs07a copy.jpg
and 8000 grit bevel on the front edge will meet with the same mirror like finished obtained on the final honing bevel, resulting
in a razor sharp chisel.
web ref GriHone07
my reference. Copy of FtBtm021 copy.jpg