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Marking a shoulder line.
To be successful in making woodwork joints, you need to be able to accurately mark a shoulder line using a marking
knife and try-square.
In the previous chapter I dealt with transforming my Japanese marking knife from one that had a very acute point, to
one that had a ‘front edge’. If you have not viewed that chapter, you will need to do that to benefit from my marking out
methods. To view that chapter go to My Japanese marking knife
MkSh01
To be successful in making woodwork joints, you need to be able to accurately mark a shoulder line using a marking
knife and try-square.
In the previous chapter I dealt with transforming my Japanese marking knife from one that had a very acute point, to
one that had a ‘front edge’. If you have not viewed that chapter, you will need to do that to benefit from my marking out
methods. To view that chapter go to My Japanese marking knife
MkSh01
I own two engineers try-squares, a 50mm(2”) and a 150mm(6”). I bought the small model with the intention of using it
when marking out small pieces of timber. In practice I find that I use the larger model on nearly every occasion.
Utter basics.
The workbench. It does not take long before shavings and sawdust get in the way, and it is best practice to keep the
bench clean.
The try-square.
A try-square is a tool that get picked up and returned to the bench during the marking out process, and it is pretty easy
for a small piece of sawdust to be picked up from the bench, attach itself to the try-square, and ruin the marking out
process. Make sure it is spotlessly clean before every single line is marked. In practice I tend to wipe the inner face of
the body of the try-square with my finger.
A practice piece
Most of the large D.I.Y stores sell timber that has been machined to excellent tolerances. I would suggest for a person
new to the craft collect some pine that is in the region of 68mm(2 ¾”) by 21mm(7/8”) and has been planed.
You also need to check that the timber is perfectly flat and square, so take along your try-square and straight edge,
and select a sample that fits that standard.
The chisel/knife tidy
I would recommend one of these to help prevent damaging the knife. (this is mentioned in the chapter My tool
sharpening system) alternatively a piece of soft material to place the knife on.
when marking out small pieces of timber. In practice I find that I use the larger model on nearly every occasion.
Utter basics.
The workbench. It does not take long before shavings and sawdust get in the way, and it is best practice to keep the
bench clean.
The try-square.
A try-square is a tool that get picked up and returned to the bench during the marking out process, and it is pretty easy
for a small piece of sawdust to be picked up from the bench, attach itself to the try-square, and ruin the marking out
process. Make sure it is spotlessly clean before every single line is marked. In practice I tend to wipe the inner face of
the body of the try-square with my finger.
A practice piece
Most of the large D.I.Y stores sell timber that has been machined to excellent tolerances. I would suggest for a person
new to the craft collect some pine that is in the region of 68mm(2 ¾”) by 21mm(7/8”) and has been planed.
You also need to check that the timber is perfectly flat and square, so take along your try-square and straight edge,
and select a sample that fits that standard.
The chisel/knife tidy
I would recommend one of these to help prevent damaging the knife. (this is mentioned in the chapter My tool
sharpening system) alternatively a piece of soft material to place the knife on.
How I hold the marking knife.
MkSh02
MkSh02
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My engineers try-square.
copy of trysquare009 copy
copy of trysquare009 copy
Utter basics
again
1 It is only the outer
edge that is used for
marking shoulder lines.
2 I use the inner
edge for checking the
flatness of timber. With
regular use the outer
edge becomes worn, so
it makes sense to use
the inner edge.
again
1 It is only the outer
edge that is used for
marking shoulder lines.
2 I use the inner
edge for checking the
flatness of timber. With
regular use the outer
edge becomes worn, so
it makes sense to use
the inner edge.
Positioning the try-square to marking a shoulder line.
There are basic rules for marking shoulder lines with a try-square. The body of the try-square is always up against the
face side or face edge of the timber during the marking out process. As always, there are exceptions.
One of which is when marking out dovetails joints. The end of the timber, when accurately prepared, will also become
an accurate datum surface, which I refer to as the face end.
Depending on where the shoulder line is being marked will determined where the try-square is positioned on the timber.
The illustration below shows the two positions required when marking a piece of timber to length.
MkSh07
There are basic rules for marking shoulder lines with a try-square. The body of the try-square is always up against the
face side or face edge of the timber during the marking out process. As always, there are exceptions.
One of which is when marking out dovetails joints. The end of the timber, when accurately prepared, will also become
an accurate datum surface, which I refer to as the face end.
Depending on where the shoulder line is being marked will determined where the try-square is positioned on the timber.
The illustration below shows the two positions required when marking a piece of timber to length.
MkSh07
Holding the try-square when marking the face side.
MkSh08
MkSh08
MkSh13
Marking the face edge.
When marking the face edge of timber the finger positions are similar. In this case I would only ever use the index finger
on the blade, not two as I do on occasions when marking wider timber.
What I would recommend to a person new to the craft is to cramp the timber in the vice when marking the face edge. In
this way the timber is nicely secure, and it makes the marking out process so much easier, with a much greater chance
of success. The more skilled you get you may find that this is not necessary.
When marking out thin timber, 3mm-6mm wide (1/8”-1/4”) I find that it is best to push the timber up against another
piece of wood. I will deal with that method when making the home made dovetail templates.
MkSh14
When marking the face edge of timber the finger positions are similar. In this case I would only ever use the index finger
on the blade, not two as I do on occasions when marking wider timber.
What I would recommend to a person new to the craft is to cramp the timber in the vice when marking the face edge. In
this way the timber is nicely secure, and it makes the marking out process so much easier, with a much greater chance
of success. The more skilled you get you may find that this is not necessary.
When marking out thin timber, 3mm-6mm wide (1/8”-1/4”) I find that it is best to push the timber up against another
piece of wood. I will deal with that method when making the home made dovetail templates.
MkSh14
Marking the first shoulder line.
I would recommend that beginners work from one end of the practice piece, and progress toward the centre. By
concentrating on marking in one direction at a time, I feel that you will build your skills quickly.
And as a reminder go through a check list.
Are the following items clean:-
the workbench.
try-square, and then ensure that you check it ever time you pick it up from the bench.
Now you checked that the face side and face edge when it was bought as flat, but is it still flat. It may seen a bit
extreme but like most things in life, this advise comes from experience, and time consuming mistakes.
the marking knife, check that it is still sharp.
if you have made a chisel/knife tidy I would suggest that you use that.
And this is the method that I would recommend. Hold the knife as shown and position and hold the try-square around
1mm(1/16”) from the end, gripping firmly.
MkSh15
I would recommend that beginners work from one end of the practice piece, and progress toward the centre. By
concentrating on marking in one direction at a time, I feel that you will build your skills quickly.
And as a reminder go through a check list.
Are the following items clean:-
the workbench.
try-square, and then ensure that you check it ever time you pick it up from the bench.
Now you checked that the face side and face edge when it was bought as flat, but is it still flat. It may seen a bit
extreme but like most things in life, this advise comes from experience, and time consuming mistakes.
the marking knife, check that it is still sharp.
if you have made a chisel/knife tidy I would suggest that you use that.
And this is the method that I would recommend. Hold the knife as shown and position and hold the try-square around
1mm(1/16”) from the end, gripping firmly.
MkSh15
And when I have the
try-square as
illustrated I am
checking that the
inner face of the
body is tight up
against the face
edge.
try-square as
illustrated I am
checking that the
inner face of the
body is tight up
against the face
edge.
When I mark a component to length by hand, this would be my method of working.
Using a marking knife and engineers try-square, I would firstly mark one line completely across either the face edge or
face side, depending on the job I was carrying out.
Using a steel rule an marking knife, I would then mark the component to length with a line around 3mm(1/8”) long.
The first exercise is easy because you don’t have to mark to a line, so I will deal with that first.
Some timbers are soft and easy to work and allow you to work with fine detail, whilst others, and I include English oak in
this list, can easy chip, causing problems in the marking out process. Because of this I have adopted a method of
working with this timber to prevent ‘break out’ or chipping.
MkSh17
trysquare014
scene 3
Using a marking knife and engineers try-square, I would firstly mark one line completely across either the face edge or
face side, depending on the job I was carrying out.
Using a steel rule an marking knife, I would then mark the component to length with a line around 3mm(1/8”) long.
The first exercise is easy because you don’t have to mark to a line, so I will deal with that first.
Some timbers are soft and easy to work and allow you to work with fine detail, whilst others, and I include English oak in
this list, can easy chip, causing problems in the marking out process. Because of this I have adopted a method of
working with this timber to prevent ‘break out’ or chipping.
MkSh17
trysquare014
scene 3
and another view
and the knife is
positioned like this,
and lightly pushed
up against the edge.
positioned like this,
and lightly pushed
up against the edge.
and this small mark
will prevent any
chipping away of the
grain when marking
timbers like English
oak, elm and the like.
will prevent any
chipping away of the
grain when marking
timbers like English
oak, elm and the like.
The knife is now
positioned as
illustrated and with
the wrist firmly
locked in position.
You move the arm
backwards, whilst
the tip of the blade
is kept tightly up
against the outside
edge of the
try-square, in a
vertical position.
positioned as
illustrated and with
the wrist firmly
locked in position.
You move the arm
backwards, whilst
the tip of the blade
is kept tightly up
against the outside
edge of the
try-square, in a
vertical position.
and a close up view
showing that the tip
of the blade is over
the edge. My aim is
to make the
shoulder line around
0.5mm deep(1/64”)
and I achieve that by
making three light
passes of the knife
whilst the try-square
is held firmly in
position.
showing that the tip
of the blade is over
the edge. My aim is
to make the
shoulder line around
0.5mm deep(1/64”)
and I achieve that by
making three light
passes of the knife
whilst the try-square
is held firmly in
position.
after which you will
have one line at
right angles to the
face edge, and in
the region of 0.5mm
deep(1/64”)
have one line at
right angles to the
face edge, and in
the region of 0.5mm
deep(1/64”)
Having marked the face side,
the next job is to mark the
face edge. Either cramp the
timber in a vice or if you are
more experienced just rest it
on the top of the workbench
Position the try-square
around 12mm(5/8”) away
from the first knife line.
Place the 'front edge' of the
marking knife, into the first
knife line, as illustrated.
the next job is to mark the
face edge. Either cramp the
timber in a vice or if you are
more experienced just rest it
on the top of the workbench
Position the try-square
around 12mm(5/8”) away
from the first knife line.
Place the 'front edge' of the
marking knife, into the first
knife line, as illustrated.
and a different
view.
view.
Whilst the knife is in
that position
I slide the
try-square until it
touches the back of
the marking knife
I check that the
inner face of the
try-square is still up
against the face side
I tighten the grip on
the try-square, then
remove the 'front
edge' of the marking
knife.
that position
I slide the
try-square until it
touches the back of
the marking knife
I check that the
inner face of the
try-square is still up
against the face side
I tighten the grip on
the try-square, then
remove the 'front
edge' of the marking
knife.
and position it just
past the edge.
Again I am looking at
marking the
shoulder line in
three light cuts.
Lock up the wrist
and move the knife
towards your body,
remembering that it
is only the shoulder
joint and elbow are
bending.
The wrist remains
locked.
past the edge.
Again I am looking at
marking the
shoulder line in
three light cuts.
Lock up the wrist
and move the knife
towards your body,
remembering that it
is only the shoulder
joint and elbow are
bending.
The wrist remains
locked.
And the two remaining lines are
marked in the same manner,
remembering that the leading
edge of the marking knife is
located in the mark you have
just made.
This is a method that I have
found extremely successful. It
is however a skill that needs
learning and building up with
practice.
and after a number of practice
runs you will end up with a
piece of timber looking like this.
marked in the same manner,
remembering that the leading
edge of the marking knife is
located in the mark you have
just made.
This is a method that I have
found extremely successful. It
is however a skill that needs
learning and building up with
practice.
and after a number of practice
runs you will end up with a
piece of timber looking like this.
Marking a component to length
Having marked a shoulder line around the four surfaces of a piece of wood so that they join up successfully, the next
skill building exercise is to be able to mark a piece of wood to length.
In this instance I want to mark a line that is 100mm(4”) away from the existing knife line.
I place the steel rule as shown below with the 100mm(4”) line, aligned with the knife line I have just made. I hold the rule
firmly and mark a line around 3mm (1/8”) long in position A
MkSh28
trysquare014
scene 14
Having marked a shoulder line around the four surfaces of a piece of wood so that they join up successfully, the next
skill building exercise is to be able to mark a piece of wood to length.
In this instance I want to mark a line that is 100mm(4”) away from the existing knife line.
I place the steel rule as shown below with the 100mm(4”) line, aligned with the knife line I have just made. I hold the rule
firmly and mark a line around 3mm (1/8”) long in position A
MkSh28
trysquare014
scene 14
viewed from this
direction.
direction.
leaving a small
mark on the face
side.
mark on the face
side.
Then I would place
the tip of the knife
in the mark, and
carefully slide the
try-square up to it,
so that the back of
the blade is up
against the outside
edge of the
try-square.
the tip of the knife
in the mark, and
carefully slide the
try-square up to it,
so that the back of
the blade is up
against the outside
edge of the
try-square.
like this
Then I remove the
knife, reposition it,
and mark the corner
with the 'front edge'
to prevent it
chipping away.
knife, reposition it,
and mark the corner
with the 'front edge'
to prevent it
chipping away.
It is repositioned
again as shown, and
with the wrist and
arm locked in
position and only the
elbow and shoulder
joint moving, the line
is marked using
three light marks
again as shown, and
with the wrist and
arm locked in
position and only the
elbow and shoulder
joint moving, the line
is marked using
three light marks
Next, reposition
the timber in the
vice if possible,
place the 'front
edge' of the knife
in this line and
slide up the
try-square so that
the back of the
blade is up against
the outer edge of
the try-square.
the timber in the
vice if possible,
place the 'front
edge' of the knife
in this line and
slide up the
try-square so that
the back of the
blade is up against
the outer edge of
the try-square.
Keeping firm hold of
the try-square,
reposition the knife
as shown and again
make three light
strokes of the knife.
And the whole
procedure is
repeated until the
four lines meet up.
the try-square,
reposition the knife
as shown and again
make three light
strokes of the knife.
And the whole
procedure is
repeated until the
four lines meet up.
Summary
There are so many important things to remember when marking a shoulder line on a piece of timber.
Keep the workbench and tools spotlessly clean, and check the try-square every time it is being used to mark a line.
Before you mark a line, check that the timber is still flat and square using the try-square.
Is the marking knife still razor blade sharp right at the point.
If you have made a chisel/knife tidy I would suggest that you use that.
I am not in my workshop on a daily basis, so before any project I will still have a few practice runs marking lines before
working on the project in hand.
There are so many important things to remember when marking a shoulder line on a piece of timber.
Keep the workbench and tools spotlessly clean, and check the try-square every time it is being used to mark a line.
Before you mark a line, check that the timber is still flat and square using the try-square.
Is the marking knife still razor blade sharp right at the point.
If you have made a chisel/knife tidy I would suggest that you use that.
I am not in my workshop on a daily basis, so before any project I will still have a few practice runs marking lines before
working on the project in hand.
I hold the knife in my
right hand, and grip it
between my thumb
and middle finger
about 50mm(2”) from
the tip of the blade,
with my with index
finger on top.
If your finger are two
close to the blade
there is a possibility of
damaging them during
the marking out
process.
right hand, and grip it
between my thumb
and middle finger
about 50mm(2”) from
the tip of the blade,
with my with index
finger on top.
If your finger are two
close to the blade
there is a possibility of
damaging them during
the marking out
process.
In this image you will
see where the thumb
is positioned
(I have removed my
index from the knife for
clarity- this would
normally be on top of
the knife)
see where the thumb
is positioned
(I have removed my
index from the knife for
clarity- this would
normally be on top of
the knife)
and in this image,
the position of the
middle finger.
the position of the
middle finger.
Terms that I will use.
The first image shows a
piece of pine with the
traditional face side and
face edge markings.
I have drawn these in
felt tip pen. In reality I
don’t use a felt tip pen,
and I have only done so
because the
photographs will be
clearer.
piece of pine with the
traditional face side and
face edge markings.
I have drawn these in
felt tip pen. In reality I
don’t use a felt tip pen,
and I have only done so
because the
photographs will be
clearer.
my thumb is pushing the
‘inner face’ of the ‘body’ of
the engineers try-square up
against the face edge of the
timber
my index finer is pushing
the blade of the square
against the face side and is
close to the top edge
and my three fingers are on
the opposite edge, gripping
the timber.
So effectively the thumb and
the three fingers are
gripping the wood and the
square, whilst the single
finger is pushing the blade
against the face side.
‘inner face’ of the ‘body’ of
the engineers try-square up
against the face edge of the
timber
my index finer is pushing
the blade of the square
against the face side and is
close to the top edge
and my three fingers are on
the opposite edge, gripping
the timber.
So effectively the thumb and
the three fingers are
gripping the wood and the
square, whilst the single
finger is pushing the blade
against the face side.
The fingers can see seen
clearer from this angle.
clearer from this angle.
And sometimes I may place
two finger on the blade of
the square. There is no
hard and fast rules.
two finger on the blade of
the square. There is no
hard and fast rules.
In this position the three
fingers are pushing the body
of the try-square against the
face edge, one finger is
holding the blade onto the
face side, and the thumb is
gripping the edge.
fingers are pushing the body
of the try-square against the
face edge, one finger is
holding the blade onto the
face side, and the thumb is
gripping the edge.
and viewed from this angle
you can see the thumb
gripping the timber.
you can see the thumb
gripping the timber.
like this
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