Issue 1.
If you wish to download the pdf documents that havea print quality of 300
pixels per inch, click on the six links below.
a through dovetail joint
a shoulder line
the terms 'tails' and 'pins'
I explain why I use a blade that is flat on one side and
bevelled on the other
Essential for quality work
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It will give an accurate datum to work to.
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Who's idea was it to create this shape of blade? The French?
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How I hold a marking knife is covered on the pdf
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engineers try-square and the terms I use
the terms 'datum face' and 'datum edge'
How I mark a shoulder line using a knife and square
the importance of positioning the try-square against either the
datum face or datum edge
Why I use the leading edge of the marking knife when marking a
shoulder line
Why I usually clamp the work to the bench or other jig whilst
marking out the shoulder lines
How I marking a piece of timber to length using an engineers
How to marking a shoulder line using the Veritas marking
gauge
One of the inventions I am really pleased with is my 'shouler
line marking board' This tools enables me to very quickly and
accurately mark a shoulder line.
The tools I use for marking some of the knife lines on
the 'tails' of a dovetail joint.
A view showing how the blade is
secured.
the 'spacer' in this instance 3mm which controls the distance
of the shoulder line from the 'datum end'. (see previous
SketchUp models for this term)
The shoulder line marking board
allows me to mark a very accurate
shoulder line at a uniform depth.
I achieve a very accurate depth of cut using a
'feeler gauge' that I used to use when setting
the tappets on my Honda CX 500
A close up look at my multi-purpose jig
The markings that I use.
I explain the reason behind having different shoulder line
measurements on the 'tails' and the 'pins'
How I set up the 'tails' for accurate and efficient marking out.
I highlight one of the many benefits of using Google
SketchUp
marking the 'tail' profile on the datum ends
explaining the benefits of using a piece of sacrificial veneer
the benefits of making the body of the dovetail square from
timber rather than metal.
the tools required for marking the 'slope' of the 'tails'
with the right tools and methods marking out the joint is very easy.
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I personally now have to use Echenbach magnifiers attached to my
reading glasses.
I finish off the marking out of the 'tails'
marking the waste part of the joint
In this Issue I will explain:-
how I cut out the 'tails',
I will introduce you to my 'tail trimming jig' shown on the below
also my 'horizontal paring jig' that allows me to quickly and accurately trim the waste material down to the 'shoulder
line'
and much more
Work in progress.
The sides of the box was made from ripple maple probably my
favourite timber at present. The bottom and lid is veneered burr
English oak.
This will eventually be fitted out to hold a number of rings.
The same combination of timbers as
the above box.
and the above box contained two ears rings given to a friend.
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one of a batch of seven.
I think you learn as much from your
mistakes as you do from successes.
In my view only the two light coloured
English oak boxes looked good.
The two mahogany and brown oak
boxes looked plain in comparison.
A cutlery box made for my friend Frank
Buckley from some really beautiful
English brown oak.
If you wish to download the pdf document at 150pixels per inch it
comes as one document and can be download by clicking on this link